The Women's Room and Me

I am delighted that after a while away, my first post for this Spring is a guest post for the wonderful The Womens Room blog - a daily slice of style and inspiration and they have asked me to write about 'Deconstructing French Style' which I was thrilled to do!

Ines de la Fressange Photo: Lisa Roze for Madame Figaro

Amanda and Jane at TWR have been the best way for me to keep in touch with London life whilst living in my field in France and I always look forward to their thoughts, their new finds and above all their humour. I feel privileged to be up on their blog.

Jane Birkin Photo: Pinterest

Please go on over and have a look, Amanda has included some lovely Breton tops, in case you feel inspired, as we all know, they never go out of style.

Coco Chanel Photo; www.bloginvoga.com

Object of desire - the black trouser (suit)

Yves Saint Laurent has a lot to answer for in my book.  Ever since he launched 'Le Smoking' - the bold, sophisticated tuxedo for women - way back in 1966 (a vintage year though I say it myself), the perfect black trouser (suit) has been out there, and yet it remains incredibly elusive. Which got me wondering why should such a classic item be so hard for us mere mortals to pin down?

Photo: Helmut Newton

Back in the 90's when I was living my London life, a pair of black trousers from Joseph on the Fulham Road were the nec plus ultra of office attire. Squeezing yourself into a pair of the signature low-cut, narrow-leg pants however was another matter entirely, and I didn't seem to be the right shape back then to be a Joseph girl,  regardless of whether I could afford them.... But oh, did they represent a level of chic and modernity that we all aspired to - I was not going to give up my quest.

Joseph AW13

I knew that designer definitely beat high street as regards the tailored trouser, and after some more sleuthing finally found a pair from Anna Sui in The Harvey Nicks sale: flat fronted, boot cut and beautifully made, they fitted the bill and went with everything. I hauled them out of mothballs the other day and tried them on. How fickle the fashion years are - where once they looked so right, now they just seemed frumpy and unflattering - a classic item maybe, but as the years have passed, seemingly not classic enough.

Le Smoking 1966

Yet the black trouser, with or without its jacket, remains a perennial favourite on the catwalk, and both Raf Simons at Dior and Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent (he's dropped the Yves) have reinvented it for the 21st Century in a way that just makes me lust after a pair all over again. Simons has combined them with the Dior Bar jacket for his tux redux, whilst Slimane has produced them in both wool and buttersoft leather that I am coveting (in my dreams). Further down the rock chick scale Isabel Marant has her own boho version but it is the classic slimcut wool version that will stand the test of time.

Raf Simons for Dior Haute Couture A/W 2012

Dior Ready to Wear S/S 2013

Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent S/S 2013

Pre Fall 2013 Saint Laurent

Isabel Marant in her own design for S/S 2014

If the French fashion houses are where to find the perfect pair, then it is to les Françaises we need to look for the best way to wear them. From Catherine Deneuve to Inès de la Fressange, from Charlotte Rampling (I know she's English but she is peerless in her French dress sense) to Emanuelle Alt they all wear a black trouser or full tux with consummate ease, dressing it up or down with that Gallic insouciance that I find so seductive (and know that I will never master). As Deneuve herself once commented: “The thing about a tuxedo is that it is virile and feminine at the same time.” In other words - gentlemen, watch out.

Catherine Deneuve with Yves Saint Laurent in the original 'Le Smoking'

Ines de la Fressange - Paris Fashion Week S/S 2014

Charlotte Rampling - Photo: girlsinsuits.tumblr.com

Emanuelle Alt Paris Fashion Week S/S 2014

Of course the high street has come a long way in the past 20 years and there are now a myriad lower price point versions of the black trouser (suit) to choose from. I keep trying the odd pair on, in the vain hope that they might do the trick, yet they remain unable to deliver on their promise, so back on the rail they go and my quest continues. Couture truly is a cut above in this instance and Yves Saint Laurent's Le Smoking remains as alluring today as it first did 47 years ago, offering a glamour and sophistication that the high street just can't match. To quote the great man himself “For a woman, Le Smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever.” Never a truer word said.

Feel the love at Merci

Whilst I sit in my (currently very soggy) field in my small corner of France, wondering whether Summer will ever arrive, I find myself daydreaming of hot footing it to Paris for a day's shopping, sipping coffee at the Cafe de Flore, in the sunshine obvs, but then WHAM - I come back down to earth with a bump realizing that a) it's just not feasible on a school day, b) on the weekend I'd have 3 grumpy boy shoppers in tow, so c) I need to adopt a rather different approach.

Photo: www.huffingtonpost.com

Which is why I am so happy that after years of patient waiting, Merci - my favourite shop in Paris, has finally gone online - hooray! English Gent is blissfully unaware of this major development in my life and I'm going to have to be very strict about my 'browsing' vs my 'buying' but it's an excellent reason to take you on a virtual tour of this beautiful concept store. Allons-y.

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

Photo: www.hausofmoo.com

Situated in what is now called the Haut-Marais, and just slightly off the beaten track, Merci was started in 2009 by Bernard and Marie-France Cohen, founders of the oh so Parisian children's clothing label Bonpoint.  They saw an opportunity in Paris for a store combining high-end fashion with interior décor, beauty,  art, design and homeware, championing new designers, hosting art installations, alongside a bookshop, a garden, a florist, two buzzing cafés and a restaurant - in short somewhere you could happily while away several hours browsing, shopping, or just hanging out - a venue that would swiftly become the hip place to see and be seen, in a nonchalant boho Parisian kind of a way. Think Anthropologie, but well, just more French....

Second Hand Bookshop Cafe

The Merci Canteen

But on top of all this the Cohens have played a masterstroke - they have managed to make the Merci shopping experience even more satisfying for their customers by combining consumerism with philanthropy:  after operating costs, all profits from the store go to benefit women and children in south-west Madagascar, with a particular emphasis on education and learning new skills, so you can know that the money you are spending is going straight to help others. Shopping with a conscience doesn't get much better than this.

Photo: www.huffingtonpost.com

The ground floor décor changes regularly depending on which designer, artist or cause the store is showcasing and the cute red Fiat 500 - a permanent fixture in the courtyard and the store's mascot - is frequently re-vamped and is currently covered in Aurelie Mathigot's flax crochet work, as part of her art installation: "L'Art du Lin, l'intemporel".

Merci courtyard - Aurelie Mathigot "L'Art du Lin, l'intemporel"

Brands such as Isabel Marant, Paul Smith, Stella McCartney and YSL have donated exclusive pieces to the store, and along with merci-merci's own brand - a range of sophisticated basics - you can get a full dose of that elusive Parisian chic, for a considerably reduced price.

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

The menswear section in-store is very cool with an old fashioned tailor's shop vibe - Savile Row meets Serge Gainsbourg - even English Gent was impressed (yes, I managed to get the world's greatest anti-shopper inside - but he was indulging me as it was my birthday....)

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

He got happily lost in the homewares department - phew....

Photo: www.huffingtonpost.com

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

The 18th century building with its airy, loft like feel, mixes the vintage with the contemporary in an artful, laid back way. Part industrial space, part Parisian townhouse - there are sweeping staircases, cozy nooks, chandeliers, books, and wherever you look things to pick up, feel, touch, smell and discover.

Photo: www.hausofmoo.com

A really charming idea is the Annick Goutal 'laboratoire' where you can mix your own fragrance for a remarkably reasonable price given the usual cost of a bespoke fragrance, and her mainline perfumes. For obvious reasons this service is not available online but if you get the chance to visit it's a whole lot of fun.

Photo: www. merci-merci.com

I'm loving these Liberty print suitcases, which are available here, and the masking tape is so pretty.The Fiat 500 had a Liberty makeover too....

Photo:www.avecsfr.blogspot.fr

A recent collaboration between two classic French brands, Aigle x Kitsuné produced this "festival kit" of a poncho and classic Aigle wellington boots - boy do I need them here in my field - now!

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

And when did cleaning utensils ever look more chic?

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

My purchases last time I visited were a beautiful coral linen scarf, some recycled rubber bangles made by a women's co-operative in Mali, and lots of lovely notebooks for me and stationery for the boys.

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

I like the fact that you can buy little things for a few euros, as well as bigger items and they are happy to ship internationally.

Photo: www.merci-merci.com

Whilst shopping online is never going to be as exciting as visiting the actual shop, I hope this has given you a taster of the style aesthetic and raison d'être of this fabulous non-profit establishment. You can read more about Merci's endowment fund and the charity's progress here. There are so many lovely things to choose from, I hope you'll find something you like when browsing, and when you're next in Paris, be sure to put it on your list of places to visit. Either way, it's a win win scenario - actively helping others simply by treating ourselves - what's not to love?

I'm off for a spot of shopping - merci!

Planet Fashion Part 2

So Planet Fashion has gone a bit quieter now that London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks are all over but I wanted to round up my impressions post hoc, so here goes.

London first - a bit subversive, a bit rough around the edges, LFW still feels like Paris and Milan's younger, naughtier sister and it's all the better for that. We Brits embrace the non-conformist, eccentricity is our middle name, and this year, like any other didn't disappoint.

Cara Delevingne for Sister by Sibling. Photo: Vladimir Potop

Isn't this look just brilliantly bonkers? (I think it's the tam o'shanter that tips it over the edge).  Only the beautiful Cara Delevingne, the 'it' model du jour, could carry it off - just. I so could NOT.

Colour was one of the big trends at LFW. The genius Peter Pilotto showed El Greco inspired jackets, skirts and coats in vibrant reds and yellows - Summer sunshine in an outfit - olé!

Photos: Vladimir Potop

Paul Smith showcased his usual mix of gentlemanly tailoring with a pop of the unexpected - that oh so British twist we all love, and even if it wasn't groundbreaking, it was still all pretty desirable.

Photos: Vladimir Potop

On the paler end of the spectrum, Simone Rocha took inspiration from her two grannies and presented a Pepto-Bismol pink collection that looked very fresh - we will all be wanting to wear muted, dusky pink in 2013 - trust me!

Photo: Vladimir Potop

Photo: Vladimir Potop

And as the high street labels make their presence felt on the catwalk, Whistles didn't disappoint with a slick collection of camouflage inspired pieces, sleek leather skirts and luxe sweaters. Jane Shepherdson we love you.

Photo: Vladimir Potop

Photo: Vladimir Potop

Across the Channel, the City of Light gave us the perennially chic Parisienne the designers hope we all aspire to be.  Phoebe Philo for Céline, Raf Simons for Dior and Chritophe Lemaire for Hermès all showcased effortlessly chic clothes for A/W 2013. Some considered it all a bit serious and sombre - a backlash perhaps against the "Peacocks" as IHT fashion editor Suzy Menkes termed the streetstyle fashionistas who are seen outside the shows in ever more outlandish outfits, desperate to have their photograph taken, but there's no doubting it looks like it's going to be a very classy season indeed.

Celine A/W 2013 Photo: Vladimir Potop

Dior A/W 2013/Photo: Vladimir Potop

Hermes/Photo: Vladimir Potop

In Milan, Marni, Mrs. P and the wondrous Thomas Maier at Bottega Veneta all proved that Italian fashion know-how can produce stunningly beautiful clothes with that Italian sense of laissez-faire that they are so good at.

Marni A/W 2013/Photo: Vladimir Potop

Prada A/W 2013/Photo: Vladimir Potop

Bottega Veneta A/W 2013/Photo: Vladimir Potop

A dress, trouser suit, masculine coat, luxe knitwear, leather, draped wool, pinks, both dramatic and muted tones - these are all things to look out for later in the year but let's not wish the days away too fast, we haven't packed away this year's thermals quite yet, and we're desperate for warmer weather... Top trends for Spring/Summer 2013 coming very soon!

Reasons to be cheerful Part 1: Love, Laughter and Ladurée

Thank goodness we are into February and the unhappiest day of the year is behind us.  Blue Monday has been and gone so the only way is up. My guaranteed happiness formula is a box of macarons from Ladurée and watching old Hollywood musicals - preferably together. Nothing raises my spirits more than watching Fred Astaire, Gene Kelly et al effortlessly tapdancing their way into the hearts of their paramours - it's style, soul and sunshine all the way.

Swing Time 1936

How elegant and classy do Fred and Ginger look?

Photo: Peter Iovino/The Weinstein Company

Jean Dujardin and Bérenice Béjo were toe-tappingly perfect as Georges Valentin and Peppy Miller in "The Artist".  An exhilarating re-incarnation of the heyday of Hollywood - sheer joy.

As tapdancing is to Hollywood, so Ladurée macarons are to Paris. I know there are other makes, but these are the ones for me. The flavours, the colours, the texture, the shops, the packaging, it's all just spot on, and if you get the chance to taste one you won't regret it. They are also the perfect bite size, refined and sophisticated - the Fred and Ginger of the patisserie world.

laduree.fr

Very cleverly, there is now a whole Ladurée empire: beauty products, candles, home fragrances, perfumes, confectionery - each item as delectable and desirable as the next.

laduree.fr/Design by MMcreation.com

I first tasted these 'gourmandises' when I lived in Paris as a student many years ago and now I am lucky enough to have a Ladurée shop in nearby downtown Geneva. English Gent treats me on special occasions as they are fiendishly expensive, so I thought if Lorraine Pascale can do it, then I'd have a go myself.  (Small difference, she's a trained patisserie chef with her own TV show and I'm not). Here's her recipe from "Baking Made Easy". You will need a piping bag fitted with a 1cm/½in nozzle.

 

Ingredients

• 125g/4½oz icing sugar
• 125g/4½oz ground almonds
• 90g/3½oz free-range egg whites
• 2 tbsp water
• 110g/4oz caster sugar
• food colouring (optional)
• 150ml/5fl oz double or whipped cream, whipped

 

 Preparation method

1. Preheat the oven to 170/C/325F/Gas 5 and line a large baking tray with baking paper.
   
2. Put the icing sugar, ground almonds and 40g/1½oz egg whites together in a large bowl and mix to a paste.
   
3. Put the water and caster sugar in a small pan and heat gently to melt the sugar, then turn up the heat and boil until the mixture starts to go syrupy and thickens - I don’t use a thermometer but if you prefer to use one, it should read 115C/239F at this stage.
   
4. Whisk the remaining 50g/2oz egg whites in a small bowl until medium-stiff peaks form when the whisk is removed from the bowl, then pour in the sugar syrup, whisking until the mixture becomes stiff and shiny. For coloured macaroons, add a few drops of food colouring. Tip this meringue mixture into the almond paste mixture and stir gently until the becomes stiff and shiny again.
   
5. Spoon into the piping bag. Pipe a little mixture under each corner of the baking paper to stop it sliding around. With the bag held vertically, pipe 4cm/1½in flat circles onto the lined tray, about 2cm/¾in apart, twisting the bag after each one. The mixture should be quite loose to give a smooth finish. The piping will leave a small ‘tip’ on each circle so, when they’re all piped, give the tray 2–3 slams on a flat surface to flatten them.
   
6. Leave to stand for 30 minutes to form a skin then bake in the oven for 12–15 minutes with the door slightly ajar until firm. Remove from the oven, lift the paper off the baking tray and leave the macaroons to cool on the paper.
   
7. When cool, sandwich the macaroons together with whipped cream. They can be kept for a couple of days, if they hang around that long!
   

Three attempts later, and feeling just a tiny bit pleased with myself, I think I've cracked it. Here are the results, using yellow paste food colouring and lemon curd filling.

My top tips would be to use food colouring paste (eg Sugarflair), because you don't want the final mixture to be too runny, (warning - it's a messy process getting it into the piping bag!) and you must mix (with a spatula or spoon, don't be tempted to use the beaters) the meringue into the almond paste and not the other way round as it totally ruins the consistency. I also had to beat my meringues and sugar syrup for a good 5 minutes to stiffen it up.  Next up I'm going to try to make pale pink ones with a rosewater cream filling, and dark pink red with a raspberry jam/cream filling. I'll report back.

Now as I settle down to watch "An American in Paris", I couldn't resist putting my own macarons into an old Ladurée box. Cheeky I know and with full apologies, but I swear it makes them taste even better...